Warning: Declaration of P_Photocrati_NextGen::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Product::define($id = 'pope-produ...', $name = 'Pope Produ...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/product.photocrati_nextgen.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Fs::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/fs/module.fs.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Router::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/router/module.router.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_I18N::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/i18n/module.i18n.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Validation::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/validation/module.validation.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_WordPress_Routing::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/wordpress_routing/module.wordpress_routing.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Security::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/security/module.security.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Lzw::define($context = false) should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/lzw/module.lzw.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Settings::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_settings/module.nextgen_settings.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_MVC::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/mvc/module.mvc.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Ajax::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/ajax/module.ajax.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Dynamic_Stylesheet::define($context = false) should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/dynamic_stylesheet/module.dynamic_stylesheet.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Frame_Communication::define($context = false) should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/frame_communication/module.frame_communication.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_DataMapper::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/datamapper/module.datamapper.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NggLegacy::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/ngglegacy/module.ngglegacy.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Data::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_data/module.nextgen_data.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Dynamic_Thumbnails::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/dynamic_thumbnails/module.dynamic_thumbnails.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Admin::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_admin/module.nextgen_admin.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_AddGallery_Page::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_addgallery_page/module.nextgen_addgallery_page.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Pagination::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_pagination/module.nextgen_pagination.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Gallery_Display::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_gallery_display/module.nextgen_gallery_display.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Attach_To_Post::define($context = false) should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/attach_to_post/module.attach_to_post.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Other_Options::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_other_options/module.nextgen_other_options.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Pro_Upgrade::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_pro_upgrade/module.nextgen_pro_upgrade.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_MediaRss::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/mediarss/module.mediarss.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Cache::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/cache/module.cache.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Lightbox::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/lightbox/module.lightbox.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Basic_Album::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_album/module.nextgen_basic_album.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of C_NextGen_Basic_Album_Installer::install() should be compatible with C_Gallery_Display_Installer::install($reset = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_album/class.nextgen_basic_album_installer.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Basic_Templates::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_templates/module.nextgen_basic_templates.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Basic_Gallery::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_gallery/module.nextgen_basic_gallery.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of C_NextGen_Basic_Gallery_Installer::install() should be compatible with C_Gallery_Display_Installer::install($reset = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_gallery/class.nextgen_basic_gallery_installer.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Basic_ImageBrowser::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_imagebrowser/module.nextgen_basic_imagebrowser.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of C_NextGen_Basic_ImageBrowser_Installer::install() should be compatible with C_Gallery_Display_Installer::install($reset = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_imagebrowser/class.nextgen_basic_imagebrowser_installer.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Basic_Singlepic::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_singlepic/module.nextgen_basic_singlepic.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of C_NextGen_Basic_SinglePic_Installer::install() should be compatible with C_Gallery_Display_Installer::install($reset = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_singlepic/class.nextgen_basic_singlepic_installer.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_Basic_Tagcloud::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_tagcloud/module.nextgen_basic_tagcloud.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of C_NextGen_Basic_Tagcloud_Installer::install() should be compatible with C_Gallery_Display_Installer::install($reset = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_basic_tagcloud/class.nextgen_basic_tagcloud_installer.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Widget::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/widget/module.widget.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_Third_Party_Compat::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/third_party_compat/module.third_party_compat.php on line 0

Warning: Declaration of M_NextGen_XmlRpc::define() should be compatible with C_Base_Module::define($id = 'pope-modul...', $name = 'Pope Modul...', $description = '', $version = '', $uri = '', $author = '', $author_uri = '', $context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/nextgen_xmlrpc/module.nextgen_xmlrpc.php on line 0

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Warning: Declaration of C_DataMapper_Driver_Base::define($object_name, $context = false) should be compatible with C_Component::define($context = false) in /home/mikeross/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/datamapper/class.datamapper_driver_base.php on line 0

I have been working in the past two months in some archives, here and in Berlin.  I used to  visit  Berlin frquently during the Cold War, and like most outsiders felt that it had an air of tension and conspiracy.  Travelling to the east was always a depressing experience and I still remember the taste of the air,  a product of the  sulphur laden smoke from the brown coal burned in power stations and the cheap petrol that fuelled the Trabant cars. After a couple of days I would develop a sore throat and a niggling cough.

I  traveled on a train from Leipzig to Berlin in the days before the wall collapsed. It was literally rammed full of  East Germans, making the journey to West Berlin to get their Deutchsmarks, buy bananas and visit Beate Uhse porn shops. And I do mean rammed. It took me almost half an hour to force my way through  a carriage to a toilet. From what I remember the West Germans  did  not exactly welcome their long seperated brethren with open arms. In fact their distaste for the new arrivals was obvious.  Even now I still occasionaly hear people remark about “Ossies”, as the East Germans were called.

Modern  Berlin seems to me slightly flat.  Its far less crowded than London or New York, and it feels like a suit made for someone slighty bigger. It has lived through forty years of  economic  stagnation , and it still hasn’t made up for it. Also the shabby little bars, and  local restaurants that I used to hang out in have been swept away in the first flush of  gentrification. But there are still some neighbourhoods that have barely changed, and here, as I walk across the cobbles I feel something of the old Berlin. And the slow pedantic way of proceeding that was an art form developed by some officials also hasn’t changed.

  • Hello, just to say that I have today finished “Ark Royal” & I found it absolutely fascinating, a great read !

    Just about to start “Bomber Flight Berlin” – having lived & worked in Berlin with the British Army, between ’76 & ’78, I’m particularly looking forward to this.

    Again, excellent stuff, thanks.

    Michael

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